Food Bloging News: April 10

round up

Another weekly round up, giving you all the news your electronic reader may have missed.

* Steven Colbert doesn’t like Banh mi OR worker’s comp? Watch this clip.

*A few weeks ago I waited on a power-chef table late at night at Mozza. Sitting together after a long day of “taping” were Top Chefs Graham Elliot Bowles, Wylie Dusfresne, Elizabeth Falkner and Suzanne Tracht. Now I know what they were filming.

*If you’re a writer and need some great inspiration, Michael Ruhlman has some excellent words of wisdom here.

April Fool In the Kitchen

Butter Lettuce salad

Ask any of my friends and they’ll tell you I can’t lie. At least, I don’t have the skill to lie and get away with it. If there’s a practical joke being played on someone, I want to scurry over and give away the punch line before things get embarrassing.

Being an odd little kid on the playground (read: future writer) probably has a lot to do with my aversion to “little white lies“, bending the truth and practical jokes. The whole business twists up my insides and makes me feel down-to-the-core wrong. Which is why I am NOT posting an April Fool’s recipe. I’d rather contribute to keeping it real on April Fools day and avoid all the pranksters.

I offer you this beautiful, mouth pleasing butter lettuce salad that is perfect for staying indoors, eating healthy and avoiding the truth-bending fools.

This dish was inspired by a beautifully textured salad I had at David Lentz and Suzanne Goin’s Los Angeles restaurant, Hungry Cat. The mixture of market fresh ingredients and shirred eggs give this salad so much flavor and mouth-feel I’ve found myself thinking about skipping a main course and ordering another salad. Which I never do, because their entrees are way too good to ignore, but…

Turns out, making this salad at home is so easy and satisfying I really don’t need to eat anything else with it. I’ve modified this recipe for maximizing health benefits. If you don’t have a problem with cholesterol, feel free to leave the yolks in the hard boiled eggs.

Butter Lettuce salad

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Market Lettuce Salad with Shirred Eggs
Inspired by a dish at The Hungry Cat, Los Angeles

1 head of butter leaf lettuce (red leaf lettuce can be substituted)
3 radish, thinly sliced (use a mandoline for precision. The little radish tops will protect your fingers!)
4 tbsp flax seed oil
1 lime, cut in half for juicing
2 eggs, hard-boiled with yolks removed
salt (regular and Maldon) and pepper

Put 2 eggs in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and then cover, turning off the heat. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and then drain and immerse in cold water. Remove shell of egg and yolks.

Meanwhile, pull apart the leaves of the lettuce. Wash the leaves well (immerse in water or rinse under faucet for several minutes) and spin to dry. Put the lettuce and radish in a big salad bowl and season dried leaves with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Drizzle with flax seed oil and, using hands or wooden spoons, toss gently to coat the leaves with oil. Squeeze half the lime over the lettuce. Taste a saturated leaf. Squeeze more lime juice over salad if it needs more acidity. Taste again, adjust for flavor.

Using a cheese grater, shirr the eggs (grate the egg white) onto the salad. Plate, finish with a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt and serve.

A Beet Recipe for My Mother

beets

I became mortal last week. One phone call and one letter took away that lingering innocence of youth and reminded me that no one, not even myself, can live forever. Here, in the center of my being, is the undeniable understanding that every moment we have is precious; every morsel of food is important; and nothing is to be overlooked.

The phone call was from my mother. She just got the news that she had been diagnosed with breast cancer. Then, in what felt like seconds later, I received a letter from my doctor. My blood tests came back abnormal. I have high cholesterol.

The news effected me in unexpected ways. When I spoke with my mother, I found zen-like calm, hope and positivity for my mother’s recovery. I felt oddly at peace, without fear and satisfied with the idea that we will find a treatment that will heal her. And then, in the privacy of my own home, I openly mourned the loss of bacon in my life.

Goodbye Guanciale

My off-the chart 250 cholesterol number on the doctor’s letter read like a foodie death sentence. The letter suggested in detail I “replace butter with olive and canola oil…Replace red meat with fish, poultry and tofu…Limit foods with high cholesterol.”

I started freaking out. No more fearless consumption of fennel sausage pizza at midnight? No more bacon draped hamburgers for lunch? No chicken liver bruschettas as a quick mid-day snack? What about those yolk-dripping bacon and egg sandwiches I love so much? No more gobbling up the frosting-heavy corner piece of birthday cake?

I paced my apartment. I was a vegetarian once. I could do it again, right? But now that I know what I know, how could I turn my fork away from all those great foods I’ve come to love and build my whole life around?

The cure for cancer

It’s been days since we received her first diagnosis. There’s still so much we need to find out. But in the meantime my mother and our collective family have been doing our share of internet research. My mother doesn’t care much for “traditional” medicine. She fears the mainstream medical line of thinking and clings to the old ways of healing.

My mother says she can cure herself of cancer with the power of raw food. She says that with lots of whole grains, flax seed oil and raw fruits and vegetables she can bring healing to her body without the use of chemo. There are other people—beautiful young and thriving people like Kris Carr of crazy sexy life–who say such things are possible.

The idea of clean living through a wholesome, locally sourced diet of fresh fruit and vegetables makes sense to me. I’ve seen the awesome power of food. The farmers’ market is my church. But what I don’t understand is HOW raw food can heal cancer. Is the cancer that my mother has responsive to such dietary changes? Will she need other helping factors to make the cancer go away? Will she need estrogen therapy? Chemo?

These are questions that will take time to answer. There’s still so much to learn. In the meantime, I offer this recipe for my mother. Because it’s her favorite dish from when she visited Pizzeria Mozza. And she asked for it.

Mom: I know this isn’t a raw dish. But I did find a way to incorporate some flax seed oil and the flavors of the beets make me feel so alive. I know it will do good things–for both of us.

beets

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Beets in Horseradish
Inspired by a dish at Pizzeria Mozza
Makes 2 servings

1 small bunch of baby beets (golf ball sized)
1 tbsp flax seed oil
1 tbsp fresh horseradish
2 tsp white wine or champagne vinegar
1 tsp Dijon or whole grain mustard
Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 425º. Rinse beets well, dry. Place on a sheet pan and tent with tin foil. Roast in oven for 30-40 minutes, or until a knife easily slices through the beets’ center. Let beets cool.

When cool enough to touch, slip the skins off with your hands. Roughly chop the beats into small chunks. Should be about 1 ½ – 2 cups. Put beets in a mixing bowl and drizzle with the flax seed oil. Toss to lightly coat the beets. Using a wooden spoon, gently mix in horseradish, vinegar and mustard. The beets should have a slightly creamy look to them. Taste. Add salt, if needed. Adjust for taste.

Serve cold or room temperature. Perfect as a side dish (literally), since beets have a way of coloring everything they touch!

Zuni Café Whole Chicken and Bread Salad Recipe

 

Zuni Roasted Chicken


Perfect Sunday Supper–Best Whole Roasted Chicken recipe

Great restaurants are beguiling, addictive places that create dishes so captivating that guests are rendered awestruck and wanting more. Great chefs—people like Keller, Achatz, Goin, Adria, Batali, Waters–can turn ordinary diners into devotees with just one astonishing, well-made morsel. Transformed diners are rendered helpless and willing to do anything to recreate those first orgiastic moments of consumption. Sometimes, these dish-craving regulars beg the chef for the recipe. Or, if the guest happens to frequent an especially popular restaurant, they buy the cookbook and pray that their skills are up to the task of recreating the dish of their obsession.

Then there are other times, when diners come to know a great chef via their cookbook first. In lean times such as these, cookbooks are a food lover’s best tool to getting to know the style and flavors of our world’s best chefs from the comfort of their own home.

Zuni Café Cookbook

Though I have never been to Zuni Café in San Francisco, I consider myself a fan. Not only are Chef Judy Rodger’s recipes easy to follow and well constructed, her cookbook is written to teach the reader how to think like a chef. Her words are clear, direct and always informative. Reading a Judy Rodger’s recipe is like going to cooking school, one recipe at a time.

Continue For the Zuni Café Whole Roasted Chicken Recipe »

Top Food Related Stories


Welcome to another round-up of this week’s top food news. Here are a few of the stories that got me fired up, excited and torn up.

Instant Alice
A fast-paced IM volley between myself and Spicy Salty Sweet about the 60 Minutes interview with Alice Waters inspired this fully IM’d post.

Growing Change at the White House
With $200 worth of seeds, the Obama’s will sow much needed change in the public’s perception of their connection to food with the planting of their White House garden. Minus the beets.

Goodbye to a Los Angeles food Institution

The food community sheds a collective tear of sadness upon receiving the news that after twenty years of business, The Cook’s Library on 3rd street plans to close. Between the bad economy and the power of internet book sales, it seems that the future for small, independent book stores is quite bleak.

Add This to Your Foodie RSS
The Atlantic Monthly introduces Corby Kummer’s food section and a Back of the House (kitchen) focused section for the culinary curious.

Where to Find Great Coffee in Los Angeles

A conversation with Los Angeles’ best independent coffee roaster, Angel Orozco, Founder of Cafecito Organico.

Wine Review with Wine Woolf

Wine drops

Thanks to all of my years working in great wine-friendly Los Angeles and Boston restaurants, I take wine drinking very seriously. Wine can elevate a meal. A well made wine can highlight the subtle nuances of an herb or delicate ingredient. Searing acidity can cut through the fat of a juicy piece of meat and clean the palate for the next incredible bite. One sip of an extraordinary little known wine or a well aged investment bottle and your tastebuds are on a journey to a distant locale; great wine can lift you out of your comfort zone and put you in a place you’ve never been to before. Wine can relax, blur reality and show you life in a whole new way.

Not content with the question “can I have a glass of white wine?”, I often push my restaurant customers to define what it is they like about wine so that I can expose them to something new and different. When someone tells me “I only like a buttery Chardonnay,” I hear a challenge to offer a new way of seeing wine. Perhaps they like residual sweetness. Maybe they like clean flavors. Perhaps they just need to be talked to with kindness and shown the way into a whole new world of flavor.

Vino Time

Wine cocktail napkins from Butterflyinc.com

Vino time is a very special moment in the household of Food Woolf. Usually enjoyed late at night at the end of a long day of waiting tables or during dinner to elevate the flavors of a home cooked or restaurant meal, Vino time is when we clear away the mental clutter of the day to focus on the enticing flavors and aromas of what’s in our glass. In hopes of bringing some great wine values and amazing finds, my husband Hans and I have decided to start Wine Woolf to share with you what great wines (or beer) that we have found at local stores or discovered at the restaurants we work at.

If you only like chardonnay or big reds from California, our wine picks will most likely be unfamiliar or seem esoteric. Perhaps they are. But the wines we seek out are high in complexity, deliciously easy drinking and always AFFORDABLE.

Great reds for steak

This week we fired up some tasty grass-fed steaks from La Cense Beef and tried them along side our hand-picked adult beverages.

New School

tablas creek syrah
Tablas Creek Vineyard, Syrah, 2006 ($20)

Just the fourth national release of Syrah for Tablas Creek, a Paso Robles vineyard, this wine is definitely a keeper. Though located in the heart of juicy wine territory in Paso Robles, these talented wine makers craft their wines with European techniques–making most, if not all their wines, beautifully nuanced. We’ve been fans since the beginning and have the scars to prove it.

Nose: Crushed stones, black cherries. Finishes with a touch of anise. This syrah was drinking well in the tasting room so we absconded with half a case of the stuff without breaking the bank.

Taste: Savor the black fruit, white pepper, and pork fat. That’s right. We said it! Pork fat! And that fat played real nice with our Montana cut of beef.

**We’ll be writing more about Tablas in the future, for sure, but in the meantime, if you come across a bottle of Tablas’ Counoise anywhere, buy it! Throw a bottle or two in the fridge and save it for a perfect wine moment.

Old School

Blending wines
(we didn’t take a picture of this bottle, but here’s a photo of our wine making friend Chris Keller to entertain you!)

Bandol, La Bastide Blanche, 2006 ($26)

From one of the best appellations in Provence comes this deep, blackberry laden, bitter chocolate-dripping Mourvedre. The vines are grown traditionally in stony soils using organic fertilization. Grapes are all hand-picked.

Nose: Blueberries and mocha. Elegant and classy.

Taste: Juicy on the tongue and structured like your grandmother’s armoire. This wine plumps up with a little fat (say a great, marbled steak). This beautiful Bandol also loved the marbling on the rib-eye we sampled. Top notch wine paring for steak!

Cantina Zaccagniti
Cantina Zaccagnini, Il Vino “Dal Tralcetto”, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, 2005 ($16)

We coaxed this bad boy off of a shelf at Corktree Cellars Wine Bar and Bistro in Carpenteria. Maybe it was the wine twig hanging on the label that caught our eye, or maybe it was the approachable grape of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that made this wine hard to resist.

Nose: Bright fruit with crushed herbs. Rustic.

Taste:
Nice balance of jam to tannin ratio. Raisinated, but smooth. Deep color. We loved the fact this wine was extremely affordable. Great choice for Top Sirloin.

Cafecito Organico: a Q&A

Whenever I go to the Hollywood Farmers’ Market, one of the first stops on my trip is to go see Angel for a perfectly brewed cup of coffee from Cafecito Organico. Though carrying produce is always more difficult with a cup of coffee in hand, the flavor of Cafecito’s racy elixir is always worth the juggling.

An interview with Angel Orozco, Founder, Cafecito Organico
Angel at Cafecito Organico, Hollywood Farmers Market

Continue To Read My Interview with Angel Orozco »

Dinner with Infinite Fress

Black Cod at home

In my rule book, the sign of a great dinner party is a sink full of dirty plates and a table covered in empty wine glasses. Our dinner last night with Marisa and Steve, the lovely couple behind the erudite food blog Infinite Fress, was that kind of a party.

Self-admitted restaurant regulars (The chefs at Hatfield’s and Jitlada know them by name), Steve and Marisa know good food and aren’t afraid to criticize. Cooking for them would not only need to be good, but also needed to show them who I am as a fellow food blogger via my kitchen.

On their blog Infinite Fress, Steve and Marisa craft their true life food adventure stories and restaurant reviews with the care of a fiction writers. The food blog, built as an amusement for themselves and friends, has begun to collect something of a small cult following of hard-core Los Angeles food bloggers. Despite themselves, Infinite Fress is starting to get noticed.

I read a fair amount blogs (maybe too many, my husband would whisper) so it was rather surprising to realize that Infinite Fress may be one of the few (if only) food blogs out there that 1) doesn’t rely on food porn (or any photography for that matter) 2) has me reaching for a dictionary every few sentences. Infinite Fress may be text heavy, but I never want to miss the meaning of any of Steve and Marissa’s well-chosen words.

Dinner Menu

Using a favorite Dan Barber cauliflower recipe as a starting point for the evening’s meal, I found complementary ingredients that helped me create a meal that showcased my talents in the kitchen. To start would be a simple salad of fennel*, wild spinach and mixed grapefruit and nutty cow’s milk cheese. For dinner would be black cod, sauteed oyster mushrooms and cauliflower two ways. For dessert I would follow a Cafe Zuni recipe for chocolate pots de creme and put them in antique tea cups. My husband Hans visited the Wine Hotel for some inspired wine collections (thanks Dan! Thanks Paul!) and Steve and Marisa came bearing examples of two of their favorite wines.

The dinner, for the most part (I mistakenly shorted the dessert two egg yolks—creating a low fat and slightly milky pudding) came together without a hitch. The cauliflower steaks and the pot de crème were a big hit, but by far the most winning element of the night was the company. Steve’s hysterical food adventure stories had the four of us weeping in our wine glasses.

I enclose the following two recipes:

Black Cod at home

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Cauliflower Steaks with Cauliflower Puree Recipe

Adapted from a Dan Barber recipe
originally published in Bon Appetit February 200
8

Makes 4 servings

The key to this recipe is to heating a heavy skillet on high heat and properly caramelizing the cauliflower. This is a recipe that is easily doubled when having a big dinner party.

Ingredients:
2 large heads of cauliflower
3 cups water
2 cups whole milk
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1-2 tablespoons olive oil for brushing
fresh whole nutmeg, for seasoning
sea salt and white pepper

Preheat the oven to 250˚F. Trim the base of the cauliflower to remove the green leaves and part of the base of the cauliflower. Place the cauliflower root-side down onto the cutting board. Using a sharp knife, make two vertical cuts to cut away two one-inch steaks (cut from top to stem). Put steaks aside.

Cut the remaining fall-away florets into golf-ball sized pieces; this should measure about 6 cups worth. Combine florets, water and milk in a sauce pan large enough to fit the mixture. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook the mixture until the florets are very tender, about 10-15 minutes. Strain, reserving 2 cups of the cooking liquid. Spread the drained florets onto a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake ten minutes until slightly dry. Transfer florets to a blender in batches. Add about a half of cup of warm milk mixture to the blender and blend until smooth. Continue until all of the soft florets are blended to a smooth texture. Return puree to same saucepan. Taste for seasoning. If desired, add a fine grating of nutmeg to the puree for an additional flavor boost.

Increase oven temperature to 350˚. Heat 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a heavy, ovenproof skillet over medium high heat. Brush the cauliflower steaks with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the cauliflower steaks in the heated skillet and cook until each side is golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until cauliflower steaks are tender, about 10 minutes.

Divide puree equally and top each serving with a cauliflower steak.


*This recipe can be made in advance of meal. Re-warm puree over medium heat.

Chocolate pots de creme

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Chocolate Pots (Tea Cups) de Crème Recipe
Recipe adapted from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook

Makes four servings

3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (save the extra for a garnish!)
1 half pint of heavy cream, ¾ cup for pot au crème the rest for whipping
¾ cup whole milk
2 tablespoons sugar
4 egg yolks
A good bourbon (or Calvados, Frangelico or Cointreau) (Optional)

Preheat the oven to 300˚

Melt the chocolate with ½ cup of the cream in a double boiler (a small metal bowl over a pot of simmering water). Stir occasionally, until the chocolate is melted. Remove from heat and set aside.

Warm the remaining ¼ cup cream, the milk and sugar in a small saucepan. Stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk the yolk, then slowly stir in the warm milk mixture. Pour the mixture (through a sieve) into the melted chocolate. Stir to combine. Stir in a splash of your flavoring liquor of your choice.

Making chocolate pots de creme

Pour the mixture into four china tea cups and place them at least an inch apart in a baking pan or rectangular casserole dish large enough to hold the cups. If you don’t have tea cups use 4- to 5-ounce ramekins or custard cups. Add hot water into the baking dish (be careful not to splash water into the cups!) trying to get the water as high up as possible, without the water overflowing the baking dish. The hot water should come to almost an inch below the top of the tea cups.

Chocolate pots de creme fresh out of oven

Bake until custard is just set at the edges, but still quite soft in the center, about 45 minutes. To check, lift a tea cup and tilt it: the center should bulge. The eggs will continue to cook after you pull the custards out of the oven. The chocolate will harden as it cools. If the custard is already firm when you first check it, then remove the tea cups from the oven and set the cups in shallow bath of salted ice water to stop the cooking.

Cool, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. (They will keep for several days but are best eaten within a few hours of cooking!)

When ready to serve, whip the cream (do by hand with a whisk for a great arm work out or a blender for speed) until soft peaks form. Add a splash of bourbon to taste.

Before serving, sprinkle a pinch of Maldon sea salt onto the top of the pudding (believe me, you’re going to love it!), a hearty dollop of whipped cream and a fine grating of chocolate over the top. Enjoy!

*Marisa claims that this dish converted her from being a fennel hater.

A Homemade Life

The thing about Molly Wizenberg’s blog Orangette and food memoir, A Homemade Life, is that her words are so charming and engaging they have the power to remind us that the simplest moments are worth cherishing (and in her case, documenting). For her, the way the light comes in through an open window; the texture of a great pudding; the crunch of a homemade granola; the smile on a loved one’s face–all of it requires description and care. Through her stories and treasured recipes, Molly shows us again and again that the things that make life special are great meals and the people you share them with.

Life changers in the shape of humans

There are people that change the course of your life within minutes of meeting them. These influential people–life long contributors and brief characters that flutter in and out of your life–have had the power to shake everything up and leave you changed forever.

There is a special kind of individual–the hero–that has the ability to change lives forever through the sheer power of their influence, words or deeds. These Great People–presidents, thinkers, poets, musicians, artists–inspire and inform without any knowledge of their influence on others.

My life changing heroes are artists. Countless writers, storytellers, filmmakers, painters, illustrators, musicians that have entered my life, scrambled my brain and left me forever changed by their art. One such stranger—a hero that has spread whole crops of inspiration—is Molly Wizenberg.

Long and winding road (and story)

Like many Internet searches that lead to an unexpected path of information, I stumbled across Molly’s blog while looking for inspiration for my wedding. Once there, I was captivated by Orangette’s style and voice. I found Molly’s passion for food and delightful stories that were not only entertaining but often inspired me to head to the kitchen with one of her recipes and start cooking. The more I read Orangette, the more I wanted to explore food.

Flash forward a year. I was newly married and in Italy for my honeymoon. While in a beloved chef’s home kitchen in Panicale, I decided I would put my screenplay writing on hold and start my own food blog.

Like the world needs another food blogger

As I cooked bistecca on an open hearth, I imagined what my blog would look like. My posts would be inspired by food and driven by stories. I would tell people what it was like to love food and work in restaurants. I would be honest about my need to learn more and I would chart my culinary adventures on the page. “I’ll be like Orangette,” I said to myself. “Only different.” My blog would be my special place–A Room of One’s Own, if you will—where I could create fearlessly about food. Within my first week of returning home to the states, I started Food Woolf, naming it after Virginia Woolf, a great female writer that championed the need for a feminine perspective in the literary world.

Like an awkward teenager trying out some new dance moves, writing in my blog was strange at first. I both hoped no one would notice my fledgling pages and quietly longed for encouragement. I went to Orangette for inspiration, found wonderful recipes that sent me on my own journeys and over the next several months I began creating a blog that started to resemble the thing I envisioned many months before.

But I became more confident, I started to feel protective of my process. I stopped reading Orangette for fear of adopting a mimicking tone and style to Molly’s. As students and disciples before me, I felt the need to break away from the person that first inspired me, in order create without feeling her influence on my work.

I occasionally stopped by Orangette to keep abreast of important moments in her life. These posts I read—sort of stolen glances across the Internet—told me of exiting new developments in her writing life. There was to be a regular column in Bon Appetit! Hints of book deal! These triumphant moments in any young writer’s life elicited pride and jealousy in me, almost simultaneously.

After less than twenty hours after Molly’s book hit the book stores, I purchased a copy of the three-hundred page book. Once I had the book in my hands, I felt like I had been reunited with a best friend. Lovely, charming, honest and always true to herself, Molly Wizenberg’s food memoir reminded me all over again why I fell in love with her and her blog in the first place.

Without a stitch of bravado, Molly takes readers on a personal journey through her life, one meal at a time. Tales of her childhood are charming and insightful, not at all self-indulgent. Her honesty in describing her relationship with her parents and the unexpected and sudden loss of her father touched me to the core. Using delightful anecdotes and corresponding recipes, Molly shows us what how love and food can transform a life so completely.

Short chapters quickly unfolded in a page turning style that had me polishing off the book in two brief sittings. To overuse a food metaphor, I gobbled the thing up and cried because it was so beautiful. For someone so new to the food writing world, the girl has chops.

Though this isn’t much of a book review, it is a kind of lengthy thank you note to a food writing hero. It’s open letter of thanks to a person I have never met but has inspired me to follow my passion as a writer.

Thank you, Molly and thank you to all the people (known and unknown) who have inspired me to keep on writing.

What's to love about LA (on Sunday)?

lamp posts2

Sundays in Los Angeles are special. Almost always beautiful, Sundays in the City of Angels is the most relaxed day of the week. Gone are the power suits, the high-heels and tight dresses; the uniform of choice is a mixture of well-worn jeans, ironic tee shirts, comfortable shoes (flip flops, Uggs and sneakers), hat (baseball or a hipster 50’s lid) and sunglasses.

At the Hollywood Farmers Market with Leah (SpicySaltySweet.com)

hollywood farmers market

I always see great art on Sunday.

Little Girl at Hungry Cat, LA

eye graffitiTerroni, LA

Chandelier

Hungry Cat Clam

artmuseum gappa

Sunday is my jam. If Sunday was music, it would play like an old copy of Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue. Sundays are quiet as the Sunday paper; cozy as a nap on the couch; delectable as a leisurely brunch; meditative as a walk through the farmers’ market.

Hollywood farmers market, March 2009

Hollywood farmers market, March 2009

Pepe at Hollywood Farmers Market

Hungry Cat bar

Loteria at Farmers Market

The food on Sunday is always better.

Hungry Cat seafood platter

Hungry Cat oysters

Hungry Cat special brunch

Hungry cat fish and chips

Sundays are for a freshly made cocktail made with hand picked things selected with care. Sundays are for a cold beer in a pint glass or a crisp white with oysters.

sunday drinks

Sundays are for seeing old friends and family and meeting new characters.

May your next Sundays be soft and gentle, like kisses…

Images from Los Angeles Art Museum, Hungry Cat, Los Angeles, Hollywood Farmers Market, Terroni Los Angeles

Food Blogging News: March 6


Welcome to the first ever Food Woolf weekly round up, where I feature some of the week’s greatest culinary stories and compelling food news.

1. Depression Cooking with Clare

Karen, my high-school best friend and avid food blog reader tipped me off to a series of heart warming cooking videos that feature a 93-year old cook and great grandmother. Clare, the host and historian of the cooking series, cooks resourceful Depression-era dishes and recounts her memories from the 30’s and early 40’s.

With budgets tight and many families facing lean times, Clare’s recipes are not only timely but offer great insights into making the most when times are tight.

2. Fired up about tipping
I work in a restaurant, so I take tipping very seriously. Surprisingly, so does food writer and NY Times food critic Frank Bruni. His insightful piece about tipping has gotten more than a few feathers ruffled and has inspired many other NY Columnists to chime in.

3. Food Woolf featured on Public Kitchen Radio
Here we go with the shameless self promotion: my feature on Boston’s Daily Catch Restaurant and Restaurant Week is featured on WBUR’s Public Radio Kitchen, Boston’s National Public Radio station.

4. SK’s Donuts Revisited:
A recent trip back to SK’s Donuts reveals that the classics (glazed and sugar raised) are remarkable expressions of fried dough. If you live in the Hollywood/Fairfax area of Los Angeles you have GOT to check out these donuts. They’re open 24 hours a day, so you have no excuse.

5. Bauer Seconds sale
If you live in the LA area and love great pottery, be sure to stop by Bauer Pottery this weekend for their annual Seconds Sale.


3051 Rosslyn Street
Los Angeles, CA 90065
Saturday & Sunday
March 7 & 8
10am – 5pm

Five-Spice Chicken Banh Mi Recipe

Vietnamese vegetable banh mi mise en place

All it took was one bite of Vietnamese food to turn me into a hungry student of the cuisine. That first mouthful inspired me with its hot, sweet, and spicy. Rice paper was a revelation. Fish sauce was a pungent wake up call. The perfume of a fresh kaffir lime leaf and lemongrass enchanted me and filled me with a desire to learn.

My first encounter with the cuisine of Vietnam was in the kitchen of a rocket scientist who lived in the neighboring town of Cambridge, Massachusetts. My friend Mark was a smart guy who loved to travel the world for science and food. The aromas emanating from Mark’s kitchen were unfamiliar. The pot on the stove—the source of all that I smelled—was covered to hide its contents. There a book-marked copy of Mai Pham’s “The best of Vietnamese and Thai Cooking” perched on the nearby counter.

I was in my mid 20’s, living just a short drive from my small town, and knew almost nothing about Asian food cultures. My knowledge went as far as what to order at the local sushi restaurant and Chinese take out spot.

“Close your eyes,” Mark said. He spooned a bit of the soupy broth from the splattered stove top.  “Taste.”

The high-note spices, the sweet aromatics, and the delicate textures left me speechless. What was that flavor? Pumpkin? Coconut? I was in the thick of a culinary awakening.

Soon after this experience, I got the news I was accepted into film school. I packed my bags for Los Angeles, but just before I left, Mark gave me my very own copy of Mai Pham’s cookbook. That cookbook became my passport to food exploration and, eventually, a bridge to cherished friends. My copy is colored with more than a decade’s worth of experimenting.

My Five-spice Chicken Banh Mi is truly is happiness on bread.

Continue for my Five-spice Chicken Banh Mi Recipe »

Chef's tips on kitchen tools and gadgets

Hatfield's Restaurant: 1 AM Saturday night

I’ve worked in the restaurant business off and on since I was 16-years old. Granted there were whole years I did my best trying to get away from the sharp knives, angry guests, dangerous flames, greasy floors, empty ketchup bottles, pressed linen, heavy wine crates and demanding hours–but one thing that’s remained constant in my working life is my love of food and my undeniable appreciation of restaurant industry. A restaurant workers’ life may be a pirate’s life, but I love it.

I met my husband while serving at a wine restaurant. That might have something to do with my appreciation of the food/service industry. But beyond true love, restaurants have given me valuable information about food and real skills in the kitchen.

Hoping to save you from long hours and low pay, here are a handful of tips my chef friends have taught me along the way.

Kitchen secrets:

What I love about my kitchen part 2
1. Make the most of a small counter space. Use plastic dining trays as a cutting board

After watching me prep dinner in my tiny kitchen, my chef friend Brian suggested I buy myself a set of cafeteria trays. A perfect solution for a small kitchen, these plastic trays can be can be swapped out in seconds, whereas cleaning a counter top can take minutes.

Plastic cafeteria trays like this one can be found at restaurant supply stores. I found mine at Surfas.

What I love about my kitchen part 2
2. Stay organized with a mise-en-place

French for put everything in its place, the Mise-en-place (or “mise” for short) are the uncooked/prepared elements of a recipe. Ingredients like chopped onions, minced garlic and skinned chicken may eventually all end up in the same pan, but individually the ingredients couldn’t be more different in flavor and preparation.

Though a thorough mise may require extra dish washing at the end of the meal, it will keep a chef organized and focused on cooking. This is especially important when an extra minute of cooking can make the difference between a dish being burned or browned.

how to use an immersion blender
3. Use prep containers to prepare food and store items in one container

When preparing ingredients in advance of a meal, a to-go container is perfect way to maximize a single container for both preparation and storage. Using an immersion blender, you can prepare a creamy dressing or puree a soup in batches in one of these tall plastic prep containers. Pop a lid onto the container and the ingredients are ready to be stored for future use.

What I love about my kitchen part 2
4. Reuse to-go containers for left-overs.

Though this may seem obvious in a green-conscious time, I’m always amazed when I see people throw away their to-go containers. Watch a chef in his kitchen or walk-in, and you’ll see ingenious uses for to go containers.

I’ve been amazed at how resourceful some chefs can be with to-go containers. I’ve seen cookies, cheese rinds, melted butter, left over bacon grease, bones for making soup and tons of other items stored (separately!) in to-go containers. Easy to stack and clean, a reused to-go container minimizes waste and reduces plastic wrap or aluminum foil usage. Do as the chefs do and label your to-go containers with masking tape and Sharpie so you know when you have a clear “use by” date.

What I love about my kitchen part 2
5. Reuse to-go and prep containers for compact freezer storage.

Used in the freezer, to-go prep container can hold soup stock and left-over vegetable scraps to be made into future vegetable stock.

What I love about my kitchen part 2
6. Use sheet trays for prep and cooking

Stronger than the traditional cookie sheet, the sheet tray is a durable and easy to clean metal cooking sheet. Perfect for baking, think of sheet trays as another work surface. Toss vegetables in olive oil and seasonings on the tray and put directly into the oven. Line a sheet tray with parchment paper and bake perfectly browned cookies.

What I love about my kitchen part 2
7. Use squeeze bottles for frequently used oils and sauces

Like a mise-en-place, chefs need to have sauces and oils nearby and in a container that’s easy to access for multiple uses throughout service. Using a squeeze bottle (like the kind usually used for serving ketchup or mustard) is an ingenious way to avoid opening caps or bottles and get access to a frequently used liquid ingredient in mere seconds.

I use my squeeze bottle for olive oil I cook with and have a back up bottle for finishing oil if I’m cooking for more a large party.

My collection of salt
8. Have finishing salt and cooking salts in individual dishes nearby

Though technically this is part of any mise-en-place, I like to think of my salt collection as a permanent installation for my kitchen. My sea salt collection (Maldon, Kosher and a fine sea salt) are always on the counter or on the stove for easy access and fast finishing of a plate.

(Italian) Restaurant week in Boston

The menu at Daily Catch

With plane ticket fares through the roof it’s impossible to hop a plane to Italy every time you get a craving for pizza or homemade pasta. And thanks to lean times, even eating a slice or a plate of pasta locally can seem impossible. But thanks to restaurant week, dining establishments across the country are offering deep savings to budget conscious diners to entice them to eat out.

No matter what kind of food you are craving, if you are lucky enough to live in Boston you can take part in this year’s restaurant week. From March 15-20th and March 22-27th Boston restaurant week participants will offer great money saving meals (multi-course meals for just $20.09 for lunch and dinners for $33.09) to cash strapped foodies looking to step out.

Participating in this year’s restaurant week is one of my new favorite North End restaurants, Daily Catch. Located in the nation’s oldest Italian neighborhoods, The Daily Catch is a family restaurant that has been in business since the early 70’s. This tiny, twenty-seat Italian restaurant specializes in fresh-off-the-pier seafood. Known primarily for calamari and Sicilian pastas served in the sauté pans they were cooked in, the Daily Catch offers hand-made specialties to Hanover Street regulars and visitors alike.

Clam linguini at The Daily CatchWhat you’ll find at the Daily Catch

Squeeze into a table and you’ll be just inches from the closet-sized open kitchen. No matter where your table is you will have a front row view of the hard working chef as he prepares every dish while he harangues the knowledgeable (albeit harried) server. But not to worry, a steaming pan full of perfectly cooked pasta topped with fresh clams or calamari is enough to distract you from the restaurant employees’ drama.

Start the meal with a Moretti beer or a crisp Italian vermentino and an appetizer portion of fried calamari. A touch of lemon is the only condiment needed to season the perfectly tender and lightly breaded squid. Though the Daily Catch has a very nice Italian beer and wine selection for its minuscule size, don’t expect the server to pull a pair of wine glasses from a non-existent shelf. In what must be a space and dish-washing saving measure, all beverages are poured into plastic cups.

All dishes are made to order and served in the pan they were cooked in–which practically guarantees the pasta is prepared for every diner with extra care. Seafood at the Daily Catch isn’t overworked or overly dressed up. Every bite is full of briny flavor.

Standout favorites are the fresh fish of the day, linguine and clams in olive oil and garlic and squid ink pasta Aglio Olio made with a flavorful seafood ragu made with ground calamari.

Squid Ink pasta at Daily Catch

The Daily Catch
323 Hanover Street
(between Prince and Richmond)
617.523.8567

If you’re craving dessert

If you’re looking for an authentic Italian pastry, stop by The Modern for a freshly-piped ricotta cannoli and a frothy cappuccino.

Beautiful Wine, Amazing Selection

And speaking of deals, while you’re in the North End be sure to visit the city’s oldest wine shop V. Cirace & Son, Inc.. Since 1906, the Cirace family have sold an extensive collection of imported wines, spirits and culinary delicacies. Homey and welcoming, this family wine store features Italian wines, liqueurs and digestives.

V. Cirace and Sons, North End

Maybe even more impressive than their Italian wine selection, however, is Cirace’s free Italian reference guides that present customers brief write ups that include regional insights and maps, varietals and culinary specialties for each of Italy’s wine diverse wine regions. A perfect resource for any wine drinker looking to save some money, V. Cirace’s wine resource guides are not only free but are the invaluable crib sheets for learning Italy’s complex wine regions and grapes.

V. Cirace & Son, Inc.
173 North Street
Boston, MA 02109
Tel: (617) 227-3193
Fax: (617) 227-6941

A Recipe for Becoming Guatemalan

mixtas

Yo soy pura gringa. And yet, thanks to my husband, I am part of a beautiful Guatemalan/German family.

As a food lover and newly initiated family member, I thoroughly enjoy learning the histories of my husband’s family through food. Standing at the stove with my mother in-law, I discover the heritage dishes of the generations before and relish the bright, fresh flavors of comfort food from Guatemala.

In any culinary journey, the key to discovering the nuances of an unfamiliar territory is through comfort food. But eater beware. Once sampled, another culture’s comfort food has the power to beguile, distract and–most impressively–require further in depth exploration. One bite and suddenly you’re filled with a longing for that comforting flavor that can match the craving of the people that have been eating it all their lives. Tasting Mixtas for the first time, I suddenly wanted to hop a plane to Guatemala.

Mixtas, known as Guatemalan street food, is more than just a hot dog on a tortilla. Made with fresh and inexpensive ingredients, the mixtas is a hot dog rolled up with a refreshing lime-dressed cole slaw, delicate guacamole, green chiles and spicy hot sauce. A perfect mid day snack or late night bite on the cheap, a mixtas makes you wonder why you’ve never had a hot dog soft taco before.

mixtas

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Mixtas, or the Guatemalan Hot Dog Taco
From a Family recipe

1 package of fresh tortillas (corn), heated in microwave in a towel or warmed over gas flame of stove
1 package of hot dogs (beef or pork), cooked in boiling water
Guatemalan slaw (recipe below)
Guatemalan guacamole (recipe below)
Hot sauce (Tapatio or Sriracha)
1 can of green chili

Guatemalan Slaw
1 bag of shredded cabbage “angel hair” style (or thinly slice half of one cabbage)
Juice of one lime
2 tbs chopped cilantro
1 Red onion, minced
4 tbs Olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

Toss shredded cabbage with the juice of one lime, chopped cilantro and minced red onion. Drizzle with olive oil, enough to just coat the mixture. Season with salt and pepper.

Guacamole de Antigua

2 ripe Haas avocados
¼ red onion, minced
½ small lime, juiced
1 teaspoon of dried oregano
pinch of salt
1 can of green chiles (optional)

Remove meat of the avocado and mash with a fork in a bowl (or on a plate!). Mix in the red onion. Squeeze the juice of half a lime over the mixture–the citrus not only flavors the mixture it keeps the avocado from turning brown. Rub the teaspoon of oregano in your hand to release the herb’s oils and then add to avocado mixture. Add salt to taste.

To make mixtas:

Boil hot dogs in hot water. When done serve on warm tortillas (double up the tortillas if you prefer) with slaw, guacamole, hot sauce and green chilies.

Enjoy!

Chicken Coca-Cola

chicken coca cola

February is often one of the coldest and cruelest months of winter. But thanks to an extended visit from my out-of-town family, February has been nothing but warm. You see, for the past few weeks, I’ve had the pleasure of spending long weekends with my husband’s wonderful mother and father on the ancient pull-out couch of their winter rental in Carpenteria, California.

Carpenteria is a perfect spot for two snow birds like my snow-weary in-laws who needed to flee the brutal winter of Michigan. There in the ocean-side town populated by off-season surfers, wealthy retirees and permanently parked mobile homes, we have spent hours laughing, and sharing family stories  around the dining table.

Chicken Coca-Cola is a family recipe my mother in-law shared on our first dinner together. Born and raised in Guatemala, my mother-in-law grew up on dishes inspired by local ingredients and spices and her her frugal mother. Lucrecia is a joy in the kitchen. She showers me with her passion for cooking, knowledge of Guatemalan classics and passion for sharing kitchen secrets. Chicken Coca Cola, is a family classic based around the iconic American soda.

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Pollo Con Coca-Cola

1 Whole chicken, quartered (separate into wings, breasts, legs)
1 (14 oz) Can of stewed tomatoes
3 Garlic cloves, chopped
1 Medium onion, chopped
1 Jar (4 oz.) red peppers
1 Can Coca Cola (don’t use diet!)
Vegetable oil (2-4 teaspoons)

In a medium to large skillet or Dutch oven, sauté chicken in oil until browned. Season with salt and pepper. Remove chicken. Add more oil to the hot pan if necessary before adding garlic and onion. Sautee until soft. Return chicken to pan with tomatoes, peppers and coca cola. Bring ingredients to a boil then turn down heat to allow contents of pan to simmer for several hours, or until chicken is tender. Serve with rice.

Food Woolf featured on The Kitchn

I have been skipping with excitement ever since I got an email from Faith at the Kitchn that my top-ten favorite things in my kitchen story was picked to be their first reader feature this Sunday!

Weeeeee!

For those of you unfamiliar with The Kitchn (a sister site to Apartment Therapy) this beautifully designed and well-written site features a bevy of visual and literary inspirations for the home cook. The Kitchn site is dedicated to offering readers kitchen design ideas, food stories, recipes, shopping hints, insights and national food trend news. If you love great design and you love to cook, this site is for you!

The point of all this gushing is to say that I’m very excited to see Food Woolf up on their pages. It’s a great honor and an exciting event in the life of my little blog. A million thank you’s to Sarah Kate, Faith and the Kitchn team for giving me the chance to spend some time over at the Kitchn!

(Skip, skip, skipping away!)

SK Donut the best in Los Angeles?

Sunday funnies and donuts

The best kind of donut is one that is so beguiling that you absolutely believe that the sweet, fried dough that’s been dipped or rolled or packed full of sugar is actually good for you. Bad donuts, on the other hand—the kind that weigh so heavy in your hand so you have to think about lifting it to your mouth–have guilt baked right into them. Bad donuts are dusty, grease-laden representations of dough that are better tossed in the nearest garbage pail than eaten. Great donuts, like the ones I sampled at SK Donut, are so appealing you’ll want to do nothing but savor each and every incredible bite.

Located in a tiny strip mall on 3rd Street just west of La Brea, SK Donuts and Croissants is a 24-hour donut shop visited day and night by locals on foot, business folk, mom’s, police officers and happy Yelpers.

SK’s Donuts has perfected the art of fried dough and frosted confections—and well they should, considering this family business has been around for more than 20 years. SK’s Regular glazed donut or “honey dipped” in New England parlance, is a hole-in-the-middle wonder whose airy dough deflates upon applying even the slightest index finger/thumb pressure. A perfect ratio of frosting to doughnut, the sugary topping is lightly poured over the top, leaving the under belly of the donut unadorned.

Regular glazed heaven from SK Donuts

One bite of the regular glazed and it was if I were Proust tasting his Madeline all over again. With one soft-sweet bite, I became a five-year-old on a sunny morning, distractedly dropping sugary crumbs onto the Sunday Morning Funny Page favorites of Garfield and Bloom County. I recalled my habit of pressing soft layers of the honey-dipped donut between my fingers until the dough was flat enough to be a sweet stand-in for my make-believe communion ceremonies.

Sigh…I digress.

There are so many other donuts to try. Though I’ve lived for some eight years just blocks from SK’s Donuts, I haven’t allowed myself the indulgence. I’ve really only just begun my exploration of all the SK donut varieties. There are still chocolate dipped, crullers, chocolate with sprinkles and bigger-than-your-hand apple fritters to sample. I won’t be trying the jelly donut again. The jelly is too cherry-pie-filling-like for my taste. If I’m going to go for a filled donut, I prefer a true strawberry or raspberry jelly filling in the center.

But after that revelatory culinary moment at SK’s Donuts last weekend, I fear I may never eat anything but SK Donuts every Sunday morning from now on.

SK’s Donuts
5850 W 3rd St # A
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 935-2409

Open 24-hours

SK Donuts

(Gosh, I could really go for a donut right now!)

What I love about my Kitchen

After reading a recent post by Sarah Kate at the Kitchn, I got inspired to take a moment to share with you what I love about the kitchen my husband and I share in our rental apartment in Los Angeles. Though I’ve lived in this lovely two bedroom apartment for almost ten years, it’s only after getting married last year that my husband and I have embraced the kitchen for what it is–charming and small. In just one year we’ve done some basic remodeling, painted the ancient walls a cheery sunshine yellow, bought a few key pieces to improve organization and learned to make the best of our charming and tiny (!!!)
1920’s kitchen
My 1920's Kitchen
As a food writer, recipe developer and food blogger I spend most of my time in this room. Though the kitchen is small, I love the little scalloped cabinets, blue and white tile counter tops and the new checkered Marmoleum flooring my husband and I had installed to echo the kitchen’s 1920’s feel.

2. My salt collection
My collection of salt
Watching chef Nancy Silverton finish off plates at Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, has taught me that no dish is finished without a sprinkle of a great finishing salt.

3. My wood utensil collection
My wood spoons
From the simple spoon to the well crafted spatula, my wooden utensils are some of the most used (and loved!) items in my kitchen.

4. My mini granite mortar and pestle
My mini mortar and Pestle
Bought for a handful of dollars at an Asian market, I use this kitchen tool for muddling ingredients, making pesto and crushing fresh spices. Considering how much I use this item, I should probably get a bigger model. The mortar and pestle is so compact, however, it’s small enough to live on my counter top–thereby getting much more use because of its proximity. Thanks to the advice of Marcella Hazan, I will never go back to using a food processor for pesto ever again.

5. My favorite metal cooking utensils mounted on the wall
My favorite cooking tools
I don’t know why it took me years to get a wall rack for my metal utensils. After admiring my friend Leah’s magnetic knife rack I decided it was high time to make the purchase. Now I have everything at my finger tips. Tongs make serving salads and pasta a breeze. The microplaner grates cheese, nutmeg and zest. The gorgeous, light and incredibly sharp Masahiro knife (A Christmas gift from my husband–thanks honey!) slices through everything beautifully and with ease. The fish spatula gently moves meat in a pan, giving all the meat and fish I cook the respect it deserves.

6. Water purifier and vintage milk bottles
Water purifier and vintage milk bottle for drinking water
My husband and I drink a lot of water, so this little water purifier is a great and inexpensive choice for two renters. The vintage milk bottle is part of a larger collection (left overs from our wedding last year) that we now use to hold room temperature and chilled water. We often add lemon or cucumber to make drinking purified water more appealing.

7. This space saving cooking rack from Crate and Barrel
My cooking rack
Our kitchen is tiny and since I’m often called upon to develop recipes I need to make cooking in the kitchen as easy as possible. Thanks to this rack I don’t have to search through cabinets to find the right pan.

8. My all time favorite cooking dish–my cast iron skillet
My cast iron skillet
Cooking in a well seasoned skillet is such a pleasure, I’ll often cook an entire meal in just this one pan–just to see if I can!

9. My Vintage china
My vintage china
I love Danish patterns, Buffalo China and other hearty dishes from the 30’s-50’s. It makes photographing food so much more fun when it’s in a beautiful old dish!

10. My modern and vintage cook book collection
Cook book collection (some of them!)
As a food writer, my cookbooks are markers of time, my encyclopedias of knowledge, my paper Google and my every day bibles.

What do you love about your kitchen?

Foodie gift ideas


Sometimes it takes a major catastrophe to shake down a handful of good ideas. For sixty-one year old Carol Pulitzer, creator, illustrator and designer of Butterfly Inc., it took the leveling force of divorce and Hurricane Katrina on her family’s tie business to inspire her to start her own textile design company.

Butterfly Inc. began in 2006 with a line of whimsical hand-printed tee shirts designed for pregnant mothers and babies. It was Pulitzer’s lifetime love of cooking and entertaining—combined with her self-confessed fear of germs—that instigated the creation of her small business’ most successful product to date: hand-printed linen cocktail napkins that individually (and artfully) distinguish party guest’s glasses from another.

Illustrated and designed by Pulitzer, the 100 per cent linen cocktail napkins are mini-works of art that help party goers from unintentionally sharing wine or cocktail glasses while keeping safe vulnerable table tops from wine stains. Easy to use–and certainly more tasteful than bedazzled wine jewelry–Butterfly Inc.’s cocktail napkins feature dancing hot dogs, Hans Christian Anderson paper cut outs, Egyptian Bubbles, Indian mandalas and repeating circles of numbers and letters so that every guest has a unique image to call their own.

Wine cocktail napkins from Butterflyinc.com

hans c anderson closeup

mandala Wine cocktail napkins from Butterflyinc.com

Indian Flower Wine cocktail napkins from Butterflyinc.com

A perfect host or house warming gift, these artful little cocktail napkins are available on the Butterfly Inc. website for $20 for a set of six.