Top ten tastes of 2007

As inspired by Ed Levine at Serious Eats

1) The tasting menu at Cibreo, Florence
The deconstructed Ribolita and the tomato aspic were the meal’s highlight.

2)The Gelato (Fresh Cream and the Candied Fruit) at Grom in Florence, Italy

3)The number 13 La Cazuela (Bowl of hot cheese and chopped tomatoes) at Superica, Santa Barbara

4) Bistecca Fiorentina on the grill at my chef friend’s house in Panicale, Italy

5) The Funghi Misti Pizza at Mozza, LA

6) A bowl of fresh ricotta covered in honey at Osteria Aquacheta Montepulciano, Italy

7)The squash and pecorino Fresca dish at Ostera Aquacheta in Montepulciano, Italy (see earlier post “An Obsession is Born”)

8) The Chocolate Croissant at Tartin, SF

9) The Salt Cod breakfast dish at the Hungry Cat, Hollywood

10) A handpicked cheese selection including air-dried Fici Figs by Chester at Joan’s on Third, Los Angeles

Waste not want not


Waste not want not, originally uploaded by Foodwoolf.

While making my two batches of Nisu, a braided Finnish Cardamom sweet bread, I found myself with a couple extra handfuls of shelled cardamom.

Here is my recipe for a great, fast cup of home made chai:

1 bag of black tea
A teaspoon of cardamom (fresh out of their pods)
one black peppercorn
a pinch of cinnamon
a pinch of pinch of nutmeg
a cup and a half of milk

Simmer all together until warm. Should be the color of caramel when the tea bag is brewed and flavored with the spices. Add a sugar to taste and serve!


Cardamom Chai, originally uploaded by Foodwoolf.

What's in it for the Virus

When you’ve got the flu, your insides are turning inside out and you think you’re going to die, have you ever wondered what’s in it for the virus?

I mean, what possibly could a virus get out of all of this? I started thinking about this question and wondered if viruses were more like marauding teenagers. Maybe the point is to make their mark on the weak by destroying what they hold most dear. Maybe Viruses just get off on destroying.

Clearly, I’m no scientist. I just like to eat food and hate anything that keeps me from enjoying my meal. Bad service, bad food and being cash poor are the usual suspects. But now, VIRUSES are on my radar.

Why does a virus have to go in and mess with ME?

I’ve been doing a little research and from what I can tell, viruses know that they’re insipid little organisms and their time is short. So they, like angry little teenage marauders, like to cause as much havoc they can and then jump hosts and start all over again. They don’t like to stay in one place too long, else get caught. So they vini-vidi-vici a person and then, change their look a little, and move on. That way, they can keep on messing with people until the end of time.

Vicious little *(7*&(&8%@’s!

According to the J. Craig Venter Institute, the flu I’m talking about is a Type A influenza.

Researchers classify type A influenzas according to structural variations in two surface proteins: hemagglutinin (HA) and neuraminidase (NA). Like changing coats, the influenza virus changes the shape of these HA or NA proteins when it accumulates minor mutations or reassorts more dramatically. The human immune system no longer recognizes the virus, and infection begins anew.

Steven Salzberg, senior author of the Nature paper, says the new work illustrates this chain of molecular events. “The study demonstrates that these influenza subpopulations, or variant strains, represent a pool of genetic resources that the influenza virus can draw upon,” says Salzberg, a researcher at TIGR and also director of the University of Maryland ‘s Center for Bioinformatics and Computational Biology. “Pockets of distinct flu strains spread locally, with flu evolving in different directions. Then, when one strain mingles with another, a new, dominant strain can emerge.”

Maybe it’s because I’m a writer and I want to know the motivation for things, but some how, knowing WHY a virus would need to do such vicious stuff makes me feel more understanding of it.

I know. I’m sick.

A Viral State of Mind

Okay, so it happened. I got the flu virus that’s been going around. I knew it would happen eventually. I work in a restaurant, for god’s sake. I touch dirty dishes and have people sneezing on me all night. I don’t know why I thought I’d be immune. I wash my hands all the time and am careful not to touch my mouth or face while I’m working…But then again, I am want to share a sip of wine with my co-workers at the end of the night. I just should have known better.

So I got it. From what I can tell, it was probably some mutant strain of the Norwalk Virus or some nasty virus like that. At first I thought I had food poisoning, the way my body reacted so violently, but when I got a fever I knew it was the flu. Once I could see straight I did a little Googling to find out more about what I was dealing with. According to USA Today, this viral strain has hit CA hard and it has killed thousands of people.

I can see why. Damn.

If you’ve had this flu, you’ll know the symptoms very intimately. Goes something like this…Everything’s fine and then one minute, say at four o-clock in the morning while you’re sleeping, you’re suddenly sitting up in bed acutely aware that something is terribly wrong with the body you’re inhabiting. And you better run to the bathroom. Fast. And then, well… all hell breaks out. Maybe for like ten minutes your stomach bloats out and moves around like there’s an alien trapped inside you and you wonder—is there an alien trapped inside my body? And then you realize it’s something much, much worse than that and everything that was once inside you is immediately ejected—any way possible.

Flash forward though the nasty bits. You struggle through chills, cramps, fever and general discomfort associated with turning your insides out. You’re free of food and liquid and stay far away from anything that resembles anything with a scent. You wait through it—maybe a day or two or three– and beg for it to end. And eventually, it does if you’re young, strong or without a compromised immune system.

After two days without food, I feel more alive then ever. Almost appreciative. Granted, going through the Norwalk virus isn’t pleasant, but when it’s over, life is SOOOOO much better. I can smell food again. I can drink tea. Sip soup. Chew on a noodle or two. And for the first time in a while, I can think about the food that I’m eating in terms of nutrition and what effect it might have on my body. Because, dear reader, for the past few months (ah, admit it Brooke…Years), I’ve been eating for the taste of FOOD. Not for its benefits.

So maybe, just in time for the New Year, I’ve been given a chance to rearrange the way I think about the things I’m eating. Instead of thinking about flavor first, I’m thinking about my body, THEN flavor.

So who knows what that means. For the time being though, I’ll be doing a lot of thinking about soup. Really, really good soup.

Profumo del Chianti

Profumo del Chianti is a simple enough thing. Snowy white Italian sea salt, finely ground and infused with highly aromatic herbs including rosemary and lavender. It’s sold to tourists in jars and vacuum packed bags that are perfect for travel.

But the man behind this uncomplicated, aromatic seasoning is no simpleton.

Dario Cecchini, the Dante quoting butcher from Bill Buford’s book “Heat”, is a culinary rock star. Tour busses carrying food lovers from around the world speed past ancient churches and art museums and head directly for the tiny butcher shop tucked into the hills of Chianti. Dario’s butcher shop, Antica Macelleria Cecchini, has catered to locals for over 250 years. Thanks to Dario and his larger than life personality, the Antica Macelleria Cecchini now serves finely whipped lardo, beautifully butchered meat and gorgeous salume to thousands of meat loving tourists from around the world.

If you are in Italy, all you need is a GPS set to Panzano Italy and then look for the crowd of people milling around the sidewalk with glasses of wine and slices of salame in their hands. Step inside the meat locker sized shop and take in the sights: there’s a wood table decorated with a cutting board covered in sliced meats, jars of spicy marmalade, a bowl of whipped lardo with rosemary. There are house cured salumes hanging from the ceiling and a painting of Dante on the wall.




While on our honeymoon, my husband and I visited the Antica Macelleria Cecchini twice in one week. On the first day, we walked in the door and immediately knew we had found Dario when we saw the big chested man in a leather vest. There may be a handful of men working at Antica Macelleria Cecchini, but Dario Cecchini is impossible to miss. His larger than life personality and the constant swarm of people around him make Dario the obvious center of attention.

I watched Dario with star-struck reverence as he spoke Italian with the booming voice of a stage performer. Though I couldn’t understand a word of what he said, there was a lot I could surmise by his dramatic hand gestures and expressive face. I feared that my skills of pantomime would not translate well, so I kept my head down and avoided asking questions about the unfamiliar products he offered up for sale on his shelves. Looking for something that would travel well in our tightly packed suitcases, my husband and I bought a number of vacuum packed bags of white stuff labled Profumo. Though we had no idea what it was we were buying or how we would cook with it, the label made us think what we were purchasing was just what we needed. We both smiled when we read in loosely translated English: “breathe in deeply for sudden attacks of nostalgia”.

Luckily, on day two of our trip to Panzano, we learned the best way to use our Profumo. Sprinkled on a plate and submerged in a bath of olive oil, the Profumo makes an excellent dipping sauce for crudite. At Cecchini’s beautiful new restaurant, Solociccia, they offered freshly picked vegetables and profumo in oil to guests as an antipasti course. The guests oohed and aaahed over the incredible flavors. The Profumo elevates the food, without drowning out the true essence of the ingredients.

Hans and I were in heaven nibbling on a carrot that was dipped in the olive oil, salt and herb mixture. We shook our heads in shock. How could something so simple be so good? Certainly this is what Alice Waters thinks of when she serves a perfectly ripe fruit for dessert or the why Sushi Chef Nozawa refuses to put anything on an amazingly fresh piece of fish. Let the fresh ingredients speak for themselves.

It’s been little more than a month since our return from our honeymoon, and already I’m experiencing extreme attacks of nostalgia. After my trip to the farmer’s market I cut up the world’s largest radish,

A bunch of carrots and fresh top celery. I poured a bit of profumo into a dish and covered it in golden, extra virgin olive oil.

My eyes rolled back as I studied the sweetness of the carrot and how it played against the saltiness of the Profumo. I savored the crunch of the radish and its peppery spice. I brought the dish of oil and profumo to my nose and took in a deep breath until I was back again in Panzano.

In my dream, Dario smiled at me and nodded knowingly. I had come back to Panzano once more. And this time, I understood exactly what he was saying.

Cheek by jowl

If you would please me—and there are thousands like me—you would write books of travel and adventure, and research and scholarship, and history and biography, and criticism and philosophy and science. By so doing you will certainly profit the art of fiction. For books have a way of influencing each other. Fiction will be much the better for standing cheek by jowl with poetry and philosophy…Thus when I ask you to write more books…I am urging you to do what will be for your good and for the good of the world at large…” Virgina Woolf

And so it is with food blogging. There is not limit to the kind of food websites there are in the blogosphere. Chowhound riles up the locals to give their two cents. The Amateur Gourmet makes short films with a dozen eggs and Broadway musical soundtracks. Orangette makes preserves for her wedding and photographs the jars with the care of an artist.

I want to stand cheek by jowl with the greats and write about the rustic restaurants I’ve discovered in small towns and the great meals I’ve made in my tiny, galley kitchen. I want to describe the flesh of a pear and the meatiness of a beautiful Barolo. I want to share my secret getaways and culinary inspirations. I want to recommend and rant. I want to photograph and document.

Food blogging not only begets writing, but it also inspires a lot of creativity in and out of the kitchen. Moved by the wry wit of the Amateur Gourmet, my pantry has become a casting agency. A big mouthed tea canister, a blustery pile of flour, a cluster of shriveled raisins would make a great cast for my culinary shoot-em up! My wedding day decorations went from the typical choices of roses and got a culinary focus when I turned to my food blogging friends for inspiration. Overly ornate centerpieces became milk bottles filled with wild flowers. My wedding bouquet smelled of mint and basil instead of lightly perfumed white roses. Complicated canapés were cancelled and rustic prosciutto wrapped breadsticks were served in their place.

There will be many journeys here and beyond my kitchen. I look forward to sharing them here with you.