Umami in my Sunday Market Seen-Better-Days Vegetable Soup!

Almost every Sunday you can find me at the Hollywood Farmer’s market with a smile on my face and a pocket full of dollar bills. If you see me just before noon, you’ll see me struggling to carry a cup of coffee in one hand and a week’s worth of fresh fruit and vegetables in my overloaded Lady of Guadalupe shopping bag, in the other. I like to limit myself to one bag, because it keeps me from buying too much produce that I’ll never get around to using.

Usually by week’s end, I am successful in creating dishes that include all of my market fresh ingredients. But come Saturday night when almost a full week has passed, I can usually find a few neglected vegetables in the refrigerator’s crisper that need using. Take for example last week. Even though I intended on cooking a beautiful Christmas dinner with some friends, the electricity was intermittent because of the Santa Anna winds, so at the last minute my husband and I ended up eating take-out Chinese instead. We enjoyed not cooking, but come Sunday morning when it was time to take accounting of what was needed at the market, I discovered a crisper full of wilted bunch of carrots with the greens still on, a head of cauliflower just starting to show signs of turning, a butternut squash and a handful of onions. Being mindful of our household budget, I decided to skip the market and make a pot of soup for the week from the vegetables at hand.

SUNDAY MARKET SEEN-BETTER-DAYS VEGETABLE SOUP
*only to be made as penance for when you’ve failed at making use of most or a good amount of your market vegetables.

Open the crisper. Take out all the produce you haven’t used all week. Forgive yourself for being lazy/busy/distracted by your life.

Separate the fresh ingredients from the produce that looks like it has seen better days. Seen-better-days produce like wilted veggies, limp carrots, half used onions and any other green that has lost its spunk, should be used for building the stock. The other vegetables should be saved for adding to the soup once the stock is made.

Put a large stock pot of water on the stove on high. While the water heats up, add the stock making vegetables. The fun part about this, is everything can go in. Carrots with the tops on. The whole bunch of wilted celery. Half up a few onions and whatever else you have laying around. Don’t worry about making this stuff look pretty. It’s all going to get tossed out once the vegetables are cooked down.

**Cook’s note: If you have one of those amazing pasta stock pots with the internal pasta basket, throw the vegetables in there. That way it will be easy to remove the cooked down/stock making vegetables.

Bring the water/vegetable pot to a boil and immediately bring down to a simmer. Let stock simmer until your kitchen fills with the aromatic smell of soup. At least an hour or more. While this is happening, prep your semi-fresh or fresh vegetables. Good veggies for soup are cauliflower, squash, kale, pea tendrils, onion, carrot, celery, etc. Cut your ingredients into uniformed bite sized pieces.

The stock is ready when the water has a distinctly new color (green/brown) and should have a sweet, vegetable flavor. When the broth is almost sweet with vegetable flavor, remove the cooked down vegetables from the broth.

Add the fresh ingredients, a bay leaf and some salt. Simmer for at least an hour.

Begin tasting your soup for seasoning. Enjoy this moment as you taste all of the flavors of the market intermingling. What flavors are more pronounced?

Once you know the basic flavor of the soup, add at least two to three tablespoons of soy sauce to the soup. Taste again. Believe it or not, this little step is going to make a HUGE difference in improving the flavor. By simply adding soy, suddenly the soup tastes hearty, as if you added chicken or beef stock. **Why is this? Well, according to a recent Wall Street Journal article, there’s something in soy sauce that elevates food to a whole other level and gives it a FIFTH FLAVOR. The Japanese call this satisfying meaty/savory flavor, Umami. But I digress. Add more soy if needed, according to your taste.

Simmer for another hour if you want the flavors to really come through. For a hearty soup, add hearty pasta noodles or leftover rice. You can also serve the soup over day old bread.

Serve the soup in warm bowls and finish it with grated Parmesean, to bring out even more satisfying flavors of umami!

Keep some soup in fridge for tomorrow and freeze what’s left in to-go containers or Tupperware for later in the week! Enjoy!

A butternut squash obsession is born

Matt Damon, Paula Poundstone, Ted Kennedy, Janine Garafolo, and Dennis Leary are your typical New Englanders. They might not be California good looking, but they’re whipsmart and tough as nails. Which is probably why, as a born and raised New England girl, I feel such an affinity for Butternut Squash.

If there was any one vegetable that could represent a New Englander’s sensibility, it would definitely be the ever-reliable butternut. Hearty, thick-skinned and slightly awkward, the butternut squash is undeniably bright and sweet. With sunset orange meat, its straightforward flavor is a perfect counterpoint to its hearty packaging. This tough on the outside, tender on the inside little vegetable saves the traditional Thanksgiving meal of stuffing, gravy and turkey from being nothing but a blur of woodsy browns and earthy tans. Get to know the butternut squash and you’ll suddenly realize, like any other good New Englander, it’s a real charmer.

A LIFE CHANGING EXPERIENCE

Imagine my surprise, after a lifetime of eating baked and puréed squash, to discover a whole new way to eat Butternut. I was on my honeymoon in Italy when it happened. It was lunchtime in Montepulciano and My husband and I avoided the tourist trap restaurants with English menus in the windows and searched for an eatery that catered to the locals. We were almost to the end of town when we found the Osteria Aquacheta, a quaint little restaurant owned by a food obsessed owner, in the heart of downtown Montepulciano.

We took a seat at one of the last paper-covered tables in the tiny dining room and ordered a pasta course and a primi course with some accompanying sides. Our meal started simply with ricotta stuffed ravioli in butter and a hearty ragu over pici (a local thick, round pasta). Our plates were cleared to make way for the primi course, or main dish. It was then that the pleasant waitress delivered the side dishes and the main course. Though there were beautifully sliced zucchini and a gorgeous braised beef in buttered breadcrumbs, I never noticed them. It was the side dish of Butternut Squash with Pecorino Fresca that held my complete attention.

If I remember correctly, I was speechless.

This is a picture of my dish before I devoured its hot, gooey deliciousness. The meat is tender but not overcooked. The sheep’s milk cheese’s buttery, earthy and nutty flavors compliment the sweetness of the Butternut perfectly without overpowering it. Olive oil, Butternut Squash and soft, fresh Pecorino baked together created a heavenly symphony of flavor. It was a revolution of simplicity. It was in that first bite of the layered squash dish that I really started to understand the understated elegance of Italian cuisine. Use fresh ingredients and get out of the way.

And in that moment, I was reborn.

As soon as my plane landed on November 8th, I’ve been working out the details of the recipe. I’ve tried Pecorino Toscana (nice nutty flavor, but too dry to cook with) and Ricotta Salada (looks creamy enough but doesn’t go gooey like it should) and found that really the only cheese that works is Pecorino Fresca, a hard to find, and slightly soft sheep’s milk cheese that is perfect for cooking.

After purchasing my Pecorino Fresca at the newly improved Joan’s on Third (Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles) and butternut squash from the Hollywood Farmer’s Market, I was ready to go. I made this for Thanksgiving and probably will for the rest of my life.

Butternut Squash Gratin

2 Butternut Squash cut 1 inch rounds from the neck of the squash. Reserve the bottom circles of the squash for another use.
½ lb Pecorino Fresca (cut into ¼ inch thick squared slices)
Olive oil to drizzle
Malden Sea salt

Preheat oven to 375. Peel the squash, cut into rounds and drizzle with a little olive oil. Use your fingers to coat every side of the squash rounds with the oil.

**If you like uniformity, use a can (coffee can? Soup can?) to make all the rounds the same size and shape.

Bake the squash rounds for 20-30 minutes or until the squash is nearly finished cooking. It will be tender to the touch of a fork. Set aside to cool enough to work with.

Now you are ready to bake the dish with the Pecorino Fresca. As if you were making lasagna, vary the layers of squash rounds and squares of pecorino fresca. Bake until the cheese is runny and gooey.


Turn the oven to broil and put the baking dish under the flames until the cheese is caramelized.

Enjoy. It’s a wicked good dish.